Ross
On Wye Wales
Ross-on-Wye The Wye is at its most beautiful and gentle as it meanders
past Ross-on-Wye. Ross is itself one of Britain's most attractive historic towns
with its red sandstone market place, its river front and tall and graceful spire.
Mostly built in the 17th century on a small rise above the Wye, Ross is also
the site of the Roman camp Ariconium, and in Saxon times the place where Edmund
Ironside died. Edmund had been impaled on a sharpened stake placed tactically
in his latrine. The Norman King Stephen erected Wilton Castle beside the Saxon
village at Ross in the 12th century; now tumbled down and covered with ivy,
it makes a friendly ruin. Ross suffered dreadfully in the plague of the 17th
century; over 300 people were buried in a communal grave by the church. John
Price, the vicar, is remembered for his bravery. Remembered by the poets Pope
and Coleridge is the famous philanthropist John Kyrle - 'the Man of Ross'.
The Queen Stone Standing nearly 5m tall on flat and flood-prone
land by a horseshoe bend of the Wye, near Ross, is one of Britain's most remarkable
and extraordinary standing stones. Made of a beautiful red sandstone, what makes
the Queen Stone so utterly unusual are the thick chiselled grooves that run
down its four sides. Each groove is roughly 5cm wide and over 15cm deep. It
is possible, but unlikely, that the grooves were made naturally by erosion before
the stone was erected. More likely is that they were at least improved with
human tools and that they served a ritual purpose - perhaps to let sacrificial
blood flow from its fire-flattened top down through the grooves to the earth
below. The great ley-finder Alfred Watkins believed that wooden rods may have
been inserted into the grooves to mark the path of a ley line.
Goodrich Castle Goodrich is a magnificent castle. Still wonderfully preserved
today, it stands as a great red mass of power and invincibility on its red sandstone
platform high above the River Wye. Surrounded by a deep dramatic moat, its dungeon
dark and dank, Goodrich appears a classic medieval castle; its stong red walls
are protected by arrow-slits, 'death holes' and the still visible remains of
a drawbridge and portcullis. With its stunning views of the Wye, the castle
is an elegant and evocative example of the medieval castle-builders' art, its
military technology developed over 400 years; but above all else it was built
as a fearsome war machine to guard a major crossing of the Wye and the old Roman
road from Monmouth to Gloucester. Goodrich Castle is so well preserved because
its dominant position, tower butresses and great thick walls repelled attack,
until the Civil War. What finally did for Goodrich was a massive cannon. Unable
to storm the huge red walls, Parliament's army eventually called for Roaring
Meg - a great 200-pounder cannon that had just been smelted in a vast furnace
near by in the Forest of Dean. Roaring Meg's fearsome power destroyed Goodrich's
Lady Tower and the walls were breached. Among the dead was Alice Birch, whose
uncle led Parliament's army. Alice was in love with one of the Royalists holding
out in the castle. Her uncle allowed them to escape before the bombardment.
At night, they galloped off, but missed the ford across the Wye and both were
drowned.
Edmund Ironside Legend tells that Ross is the place where the
Saxon king Edmund II died from traitors' wounds in 1016. Edmund is better known
as Edmund 'Ironside', for his fierce defence of England against the huge invading
army of the Danish king Canute. England was divided between the warring kings
- Edmund held the west and Wessex while Canute ruled in the north and east.
The story goes that one of Edmund's servants plotted to murder him for the reward
that Canute might give. The servant secretly positioned a sharpened stake in
the king's latrine at Minsterworth in Gloucestershire; as Edmund lowered himself
to use his toilet, the servant withdrew the candle and Edmund was impaled. The
king was rushed from Minsterworth but died at Ross, probably on his way to a
monastery near by in search of a cure. The servant soon presented himself at
canute's court and claimed the murder as his; Canute had him hanged, so legend
tells, from the highest oak that he could find.